Lately, I have been wanting a dog again. Our family pet, Crockett, died over two years ago, very old, hardly able to move any more, yet even as his cataracted eyes closed with the thick shroud of death, I could read how reluctant he was to leave this earthly home. It has taken me a long time to even think of replacing him.
But time has its way with us. In the Sinai Desert this June, a young and homeless dog who wandered freely up and down a stretch of the Red Sea strand had a litter of eight on the stones of my daughter's front porch. To give the young puppies shelter from the increasingly relentless sun of peak summer, rugs were draped over supports to provide shade. Coming and going from the small house one stepped carefully through a tumult of beautiful puppies, stooping and stopping, of course, to pet and play with them, for who could resist their happy frolics?
The pups were not allowed inside. Egypt is a Muslim country, and dogs are far from universally loved. In fact, in most places where Islam prevails as a religion and especially where sharia law is practiced, dogs are shunned or disallowed or even doomed. In Egypt, one sees cats everywhere, dogs rarely. I remembered a small event from years past, the first time a family of Muslims came to my house for a visit. Crockett was at my side as I opened the front door to welcome them. Their faces blanched noticeably, but they mustered a resolve which I was astute enough to notice but not sufficiently worldly to understand, and stepped into my foyer.
They did not make it further into my house. Other people were gathered in the living room, visible and audible from the foyer, drinking wine, conversing and laughing, waiting to meet the new neighbors, the Shumailans of Kuwait. Crockett wove in and out of the five Shumailans, wearing the big happy grin that revealed his canine teeth. The look of suppressed panic on the faces of the Shumailan parents intensifed. The children showed no signs of distress, only interest in the sounds of children coming from other parts of the house. "Come in," I urged. "There's food and drink this way, in the kitchen." I'm sure at that point, my new neighbors were certain the food was pork, the drinks all alcoholic. And it might have been. At that point in my life, twenty years ago, I was, I think it's safe to say, completely unconscious of the practices of Islam.
"I'm very sorry to say, but we must be leaving now," Mr. Shumailan finally spoke. I had just beckoned Crockett back to my side, as I could tell Mrs. Shumailan was very uncomfortable with his friendly weavings among her family. "Oh, but you just arrived!" I protested, in what I hoped was not an overbearing American way. "Please stay for a bit and come in." It was useless. They left. I was always welcome in their house, but they never again came to my house, well, except for their son Mohammed, who loved to trade baseball cards with my own son.
Muslims do not care for dogs. Cruelty against animals is strictly and expressly forbidden in the Quran, so they do not persecute dogs; they simply do not care for them. Heidi, the name my daughter gave the dog who had adopted her porch as her nursery, was free to roam the desert and even came and went from some of the shelters ranged upon the sands without persecution, but no one fed her regularly, no one made sure she was de-wormed or given distemper shots, no one brought her dietary supplements as eight always hungry puppies suckled from her teats everything she could possibly scrounge to eat and then some, and Heidi grew skinnier and skinnier. Muslims do not care for dogs. Unless dogs are used for hunting or herding, hardly any practicing Muslim will set food in front of a canine. And so the word came down: The pups had to leave the camp, and since they were still nursing, Heidi had to leave with them. In a way, these dogs were lucky. In some parts of the Muslim world, there are periodic campaigns to exterminate dogs, with cruel strychnine or "kinder" bullets.
We found, to our momentary joy, a place only 30 minutes away that called itself an animal welfare society, and they agreed to take in Heidi and her puppies and look for homes for them all. We loaded the dogs into a van and drove off to Nuweiba. What we found there made me almost violently ill. I had to walk away in order to keep from shouting out what was truth to me and an insult to the well-meaning caretakers who were working so hard to take care of abandoned animals in a place that did not value them. The shelter had the feel of a death chamber. It was a hot and airless cement bunker, hidden in the squalor behind a heap of junk. Within ten days, I heard. Heidi had died there. No one knew what would become of the pups, who were, at six weeks, still nursing. Well, I thought I knew, and I wept for them.
The intervening weeks have, happily, brought better news. The people who ran the shelter were limited in their resources financially, but they worked incredibly hard to save these puppies. They were removed from the life-sapping heat of the room where we had to initially leave them and put into foster homes. One by one, they've been adopted. Last I heard, only one was still in need of a home. How I wish I could be that home for her. This is her in this picture, at the time that we left her in Nuweiba, just in case you live near there and fall in love with her.
Muslims say that angels will not enter the house that is home to a dog. I say I'd choose a dog over an angel any day.








